detail profile guido magnone
Riwayat Hidup
Guido Magnone, born February 1, 1917, in Turin, Italy, and died July 9, 2012 in Clamart, was a French mountaineer and sculptor.
Son of Italian immigrants, Guido Magnone arrived in Paris when he was four years old.
Having become a cardboard worker, he took up swimming, water polo, and, a gifted sculptor, took courses at the Beaux-Arts.
It was only in 1942, at the age of 25, during a chance stay in Chamonix, that he discovered the mountains.
He devoted himself to it and became one of the best climbers of his generation, adding to his list of prestigious conquests: first climbs of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, of the west face of the Drus in the Alps, of Makalu in the Himalayas.
His rope companions are Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Louis Lachenal.
Regarding the Fitz Roy, it was reached in 1951 by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone who achieved the final feat.
The ascent must be considered one of the most extraordinary mountaineering feats of all time, not only for the extreme difficulties overcome in free and artificial climbing, worthy of the Petit Dru West Face.
In 1957, he took over as head of the National Union of Mountain Centers from Jean Franco, appointed director of the Praz de Chamonix mountaineering and ski school, and participated in the creation of the largest leisure organization for young people, the Union of Outdoor Centers (UCPA), born of the merger between the National Union of Mountain Centers and the French Nautical Union.
The infrastructures put in place will contribute to popular dissemination of mountaineering, skiing, boating and diving.
"With hindsight, he wrote in 2005, I know that it was the UCPA that brought me the greatest wealth.
The twenty years invested in the creation and development of this social action organization have been, in many respects far greater than the 8,000 meters of a Himalayan conquest".
Guido Magnone lives between Paris and Saint-Raphaël and from 1977, he returns to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990.
He begins to exhibit again in 1996.
In 2002, he exhibits his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.
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Peran Yang Di Mainkan Guido Magnone
Guido Magnones incredible adventure begins strangely...Guido Magnone - Le Baladeur 2008
Guido Magnone's incredible adventure begins strangely on the banks of the Ourcq canal among a group of kids who dream of swimming. Guido, the solitary son of "rital", dives to get noticed, succeeds, takes a liking to it, breaks his first record, collects medals. At the same time, he draws, attends the Beaux-Arts, is accepted with open arms and befriends the sculptors César and Féraud. At the end of the war, during a health stay in Chamonix, it is love at first sight for the mountains, climbing. Guido's ascent is now dizzying. He stormed the west face of the Drus, then the Fitzroy and the Tour de Mustagh, summits reputed to be impossible. He rubs shoulders with the greatest, Lionel Terray, Maurice Herzog, and participates in the Makalu expedition, camera in hand, or those of Jannu and Chacraraju. Later, in his fifties, Guido hangs up the carabiners and participates in the foundation of the UCPA
Terray This name sounds like a...La Voie Terray 2007
Terray. This name sounds like a challenge and evokes deep respect in the memory of every mountaineer. For all, Lionel Terray remains forever the "Conqueror of the useless", the example of a generous and mature mountaineer, far from any egocentrism and any ambition. Not only a pioneer and witness to the history of mountaineering, Terray is also remembered as a man and a master more than an athlete. Forty years after the tragic death of this extraordinary mountaineer and guide, who liked to think of himself as a "simple mountaineer", his former friends and the youngest generation of mountaineers come together in this film to celebrate and remember his legacy.
Les Amants des Drus 2007
Many mountaineers as part of their...When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema 2000
Many mountaineers as part of their activity have used cameras and films to allow us to participate through images in their adventures and their emotions. Many of them have become true film professionals: Joseph Vallot, Lionel Terray, Marcel Ichac, Renè Vernadet, Jean Afanasieff, Pierre Royer, Denis Ducroz, Kurt Diemberg and many others are among the conquerors of the image of the mountain. The film depicts the passion of these men on the highest mountains in the world... behind the lens.
La Grande Cordée 1997
Guido Magnone designs cardboard boxes by...Guido Magnone - The Artist 1997
Guido Magnone designs cardboard boxes by hand for his parents' small business. A painter friend loves his brushwork and pushes him to attend the Beaux Arts. He takes an external competition, wins it, befriends the sculptors César and Féraud, surrealists, a handful of bohemians. He then discovered the mountain and quickly became one of the best climbers of his generation. He made prestigious conquests such as the west face of the Drus in the Alps, the first ascents of Fitz Roy in Patagonia with Lionel Terray or Makalu in the Himalayas... Magnone also participated in the creation of the UCPA and will be president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne from 1961 to 1965. From 1977, Guido returned to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990. He began to exhibit again in 1996. In 2002, he exhibited his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.
Biography of ski instructor mountain guide...The Conqueror Of The Useless 1966
Biography of ski instructor, mountain guide, mountaineer and filmmaker-lecturer Lionel Terray. Film-portrait of an emblematic figure of French mountaineering in the 1950s and 1960s, reconstructing the life, the great races and the expeditions of the "conqueror" of the most difficult walls and summits of Europe, the Himalayas, the Andes and North America. Marcel Ichac produced in 1966, the day after the Gerbier accident, this illustrated tribute by bringing together personal archive documents, unpublished animated sequences or extracts from expedition images as well as comments taken from the autobiographical texts of Lionel Terray " The Conquerors of the Useless" and "Battle for Jannu". This film, presented at the Cannes Film Festival, has won numerous awards at specialized film festivals, including the Trente Festival and the Banff Festival.
Three years after the 1959 expedition abandoned 350...Jannu, Chronicle of a Conquest 1962
Three years after the 1959 expedition, abandoned 350m from the summit, Lionel Terray leads a new assault on Jannu, one of the most demanding peaks in the Himalayas. At the base camp, equipment and food rations are prepared. The conditions are optimal and the ascent can begin. The camera follows the progress of the mountaineers and Sherpas as closely as possible, from one high-altitude camp to another: installing fixed ropes, progressing over crevasses, in the middle of frozen towers, vertically down immense ice falls or along the edge of sharp ridges. From 7000m, oxygen bottles become essential, as the difficulty of the climb prevents acclimatization. The expedition is a total success: the majority of its members reach the 7710m summit.
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed...Victories on the Himalayas 1960
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed by French expeditions: Annapurna (8078m) in 1950; Makalu (8481m) in 1955; Mustagh Tower (7273m) in 1956 and Le Jannu (7710m) in 1962. A film by Lucien Berardini and Jean-Marie Perthus with the support of the French Alpine Club and the FFME (French Mountain and Climbing Federation).
