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Gaston Rébuffat
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Gaston Rébuffat (7 May 1921, Marseille – 31 May 1985, Paris) was a French alpinist, mountain guide, and author.
He is well known as a member of the first expedition to summit Annapurna 1 in 1950 and the first man to climb all six of the great north faces of the Alps.
In 1984, he was made an officer in the French Legion of Honour for his service as a mountaineering instructor for the French military.
At the age of 64, Gaston Rébuffat died of cancer in Paris, France.
The climbing technique Gaston was named after him.
A photo of Rébuffat atop the Aiguille du Roc in the French Alps is on the Voyager Golden Records.
Gaston Rébuffat was born on 7 May 1921 in Marseilles, France.
He began climbing at the age of 14 in the Calanques near Marseilles.
At the age of 16, he became a member of the Club Alpin Français (French Alpine Club), where he was introduced to high altitude mountaineering.
There he met Lionel Terray, a French mountaineer who would join Rébuffat on the 1950 Annapurna ascent.
He later moved to Chamonix, France and became a member of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix.
He soon began climbing in the Alps, where he would spend much of his career.
During World War II, Gaston Rébuffat attended Jeunesse et Montagne, a French youth training organization.
He graduated in 1942, earning his mountain guide certification at the age of 21, despite the minimum age for certification being 23.
He continued as an instructor for Jeunesse et Montagne, until, in 1944, he became an instructor for the French National Ski and Mountaineering School (ENSA) as well as the High Mountain Military School, where he served as a mountaineering instructor for several years, eventually earning him the Légion d'Honneur.
After some time as an instructor, Rébuffat wanted to spend more time as a guide.
He stated in his 1954 work Starlight and Storm: "Each winter I found myself impatiently awaiting July.
At last, the day would come for departure to Ailefroide or Chamonix.
There I would spend a few days on the tops, only to return and wait for another year.
Then one day, deciding that I must live among the mountains, I became a guide.
" In 1945, Rébuffat left his position at the ENSA to become a mountain guide in the Alps.
Throughout his career, he guided many climbers and mountaineers, both new and experienced, up the mountains of the Alps.
By the 1950s he was known as one of the foremost experts on the Mont Blanc Massif in the Alps, where he had set several routes himself.
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Source: Article "Gaston Rébuffat" from Wikipedia in English, licensed under CC-BY-SA 3.
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The history of the Chamonix Guides...Roped, 200 Years In The Eyes Of Chamonix Guides 2021
The history of the Chamonix Guides Company is inseparable from that of mountaineering and the valley where it was born. For 200 years, guides have risen to multiple challenges, making their organization a legend. Today, they are the actors of a changing mountain: overcrowding, global warming, loss of freedom—the causes are multiple. This film is at a crossroads. Between tradition and modernity, it traces the history of the Chamonix Guides Company, evoking the incredible challenges it has met with dignity and those it now faces.
Chamonix - Mont Blanc, Une histoire de conquêtes 2015
The World of Gaston Rbuffat is...The World of Gaston Rébuffat 2009
The World of Gaston Rébuffat is a documentary on mountaineering which takes place at Gendarme Du Pic Du Roc and Grande Candelle. Directed by Gilles Chappaz in 2009 and produced by Seven Doc, we find Christophe Profit, Françoise Rébuffat, Thierry Renault, Jean-Olivier Majastre, René Vernadet, Sam Beaugey and many others. Friendship of his rope companions, friendship of the mountain, friendship of all of nature, he spoke of the mountain with simplicity and happiness. A precursor, a visionary, Gaston Rébuffat was a resolutely committed person, without ever having spoken of an exploit, let alone a fight (among other achievements, he was the first to climb the six north faces of the Alps in a lifetime as a mountaineer).
Many mountaineers as part of their...When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema 2000
Many mountaineers as part of their activity have used cameras and films to allow us to participate through images in their adventures and their emotions. Many of them have become true film professionals: Joseph Vallot, Lionel Terray, Marcel Ichac, Renè Vernadet, Jean Afanasieff, Pierre Royer, Denis Ducroz, Kurt Diemberg and many others are among the conquerors of the image of the mountain. The film depicts the passion of these men on the highest mountains in the world... behind the lens.
July 1956 like every summer the actor...Baquet's Comeback 1988
July 1956: like every summer, the actor and cellist Maurice Baquet temporarily deserts the stage and the cinema studios to go to Chamonix where the mountaineer Gaston Rebuffat is waiting for him. A few days later, the two men achieved a historic first, that of the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), a magnificent wall rising like a rampart above the Vallée Blanche. July 1988: to pay tribute to the memory of his friend Gaston, now deceased, Maurice Baquet once again climbed this wall suspended between heaven and earth with the man who, 50 years his junior, is considered one of his best contemporary mountaineers: Christophe Profit.
The guide Gaston Rbuffat shares with...Les Horizons Gagnés 1974
The guide Gaston Rébuffat, shares with us his view of his job and the nature that surrounds him by showing us some beautiful climbs made with friends, noting the importance of the friendship of the rope party. Born near the Calanques, he could have been a sailor, like him linked to storms and the stars. We follow him with Edwin Mattews (USA) in their ascent of the Barre des Ecrins, then in La Meije. Accompanied by Jean Juge (Switzerland), in the Mont Blanc Massif, for a crossing of the Aiguilles de Chamonix. With his Italian friend Lino Donvito, he climbs the Torre de Vijolet in the Dolomites. Then with Massulu Suzuki (Japan) in the Mont Blanc massif (Rochefort ridges, Dent du Géant via the south face). Christian Ringeval (France) accompanies him for an ascent of Vignemale. And finally return to the Mont Blanc massif, to the Grand Capucin (Bonatti route) with Konrad Krirch.
This is Gaston Rebuffats fourth film...Entre Terre et Ciel 1961
This is Gaston Rebuffat's fourth film, in which, with several close friends, he discovers the sublime landscapes of the Alps. “Mont-Blanc is beautiful. I climbed it several times depending on the time, the color of the sky and the shape of the cornices and ridges. Because of the weather and also because of this feeling of altitude, Mont-Blanc provides great pleasure. For the guide, Mont Blanc is his garden, but the garden becomes more beautiful when shown to a friend. Personally, I really like the bivouacs; only there one penetrates a little the mystery of the altitude. That's why I immediately accepted when Tazieff expressed the desire to spend the night at the top of Mont Blanc in an igloo. The film won the Grand Prix at the Trento Film Festival in 1961.
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed...Victories on the Himalayas 1960
Retrospective of four major peaks climbed by French expeditions: Annapurna (8078m) in 1950; Makalu (8481m) in 1955; Mustagh Tower (7273m) in 1956 and Le Jannu (7710m) in 1962. A film by Lucien Berardini and Jean-Marie Perthus with the support of the French Alpine Club and the FFME (French Mountain and Climbing Federation).
Famous British mountaineer Winter wants to...Third Man on the Mountain 1959
Famous British mountaineer Winter wants to climb a difficult summit, the Citadel. He goes to a small village but no guide wants to accompany him. A young man from the village, Rudi Matt, whose father died fifteen years earlier during an attempt to climb the Citadel, is determined to accompany him, with the help of his uncle. Winter also manages to hire a guide from a neighboring village and competitor, Emil Saxo. The roped party of four men then begins the ascent of the still untouched summit.
Perilous Assignment is an episode of...Perilous Assignment 1959
"Perilous Assignment" is an episode of ABC's Walt Disney Presents. Disney loved to show viewers behind the scenes of the daring shoots of its theatrically released or TV shows. The theme of the episode is the making of his next film, The Third Man on the Mountain, an adaptation of James Ramsey Ullman's novel Banner in the Sky, based on the true story of the first ascent of the Matterhorn. Walt Disney will not be limited to a simple promotional making-of. He offers to meet exceptional people, including the French mountain guide Gaston Rébuffat. The latter will show climbing techniques and then reveal breathtaking images of his ascents of steep cliffs with a client for the ascent of Mont-Blanc, filmed for the occasion. In 1958, Walt Disney will therefore offer him to be deputy director on the high mountain scenes of the film "The Third Man on the Mountain".
Gaston Rbuffat is part of the...Stars and Storms 1955
Gaston Rébuffat is part of the history of mountaineering. Marseillais prodigy, high mountain guide of the Chamonix guide company and famous for the ascent of the most famous north faces: some are 1st rehearsals, others 1st French or 1st as a guide. Filmed by Georges Tairraz, this masterpiece released in 1955 reveals the beauty of effort and the pleasure of sharing in the mountains. Apart from the feat, the mountains are not there to satisfy egocentric ambitions. A classic !
In 1950 a French expedition led by...Victory over Annapurna 1953
In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog went to central Nepal to conquer the highest peak (8,091 meters): Annapurna. The film is not only made of what we see, but even more of what we don't see. Its imperfections are the negative imprint of the adventure. Memory is the most faithful of films.
History advice and demonstrations of mountaineering...Des Hommes Et Des Montagnes 1953
History, advice and demonstrations of mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif by the renowned guides of the National School of Ski and Mountaineering from Chamonix. The film starts with an historical summary illustrating the aspirations and methods that lead man to conquer the mountains. Armand Charlet teaches mountaineering techniques and takes his students to the field for glacier or rock exercises. Gaston Rebuffat makes demonstrations of particularly dangerous climbs. At altitude, people move in solitude, cold and silence, like circus acrobats without spectators, but nothing stops the modern mountaineer.
Flammes de Pierre is the first...Flammes De Pierres 1947
"Flammes de Pierre" is the first documentary made by Gaston Rébuffat himself in 1947. It depicts Rébuffat in full ascent of the Flammes De Pierre, wild ridges in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif overlooking Chamonix. Like Roger Frison-Roche, Walter Bonatti, René Desmaison or Giusto Gervasutti, Gaston Rébuffat has written and filmed the great pages of contemporary mountaineering but above all, he knew how to talk about it with enough poetry so that it is not simply airtight race stories for spectators. Stories that have been triggers for many readers, who have come to know “stone flames” thanks to him.
